🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.